The bushing in my rear trailing arm was shot so I decided to put in these from energy suspension. It is fortunately not an overly complicated task to get this Japanese sex toy looking thing into the rear trailing arm, though it is a bit of a drawn out process.
You can see it was well wiped out.
On a side note I was also installing new rear struts and a new lower control arm as well as redoing the rear brakes. Some of these steps overlap, so if you have a bunch of suspension work to do, might as well double or triple up on it as it were.
Next undo the brake line from the body, if you’re replacing these pull the whole thing. It’s just a couple clips and some 10mm fittings. Use a flare wrench on the brake lines if you have one.
Helpful tip. Pull the rubber cover for the bleeder on the rear cylinder/caliper and use it to cap off the line on the body, this keeps you from drip dripping out all your brake fluid while you’re working.
Make marks on any bolts that have room for adjustment and the pin for the bushing you’re replacing.
Undo the three bolts holding the rear trailing arm in as well as the bolts for the trailing arm bushing. I believe these are 14mm and 17mm respectively.
Rear bolt, the one on the left.
And front. The front one I’m actually removing the bolt from the stabilizing arm at the body, there was not enough room to get the impact on the bolt on the trailing arm.
For reference, here is the bolt on the trailing arm, that is connected to the aforementioned stabilizer arm.
One more thing to do is to unbolt the parking brake cable from the trailing arm. This gives you some extra slack to work with. As you will likely be using a torch for the next step, getting that out from under the car always makes me happier.
Now just wrangle the trailing arm out and give yourself some room to work. First step is going to be to separate the pin from the center. We will need to keep this. Just get it out as you can. Mine were so loose I was able to put a screwdriver through and twist the thing 360 and right out it popped.
Next step, FIRE!!!!
And there you go. I learned my lesson on the first one, it took about three times as long to do. So definitely just torch the outside and this is maybe a 10 minute job getting it out, if that.
Next step is cleaning up the pin.
Cut on this with a box cutter and try to get down to the metal pin itself. Once you do then work it like a fillet. Peel up a bit and cut just keep working like that, it doesn’t take too long.
I cleaned up any remnants of rubber on a wire wheel.
Next up, inserting the bushing!
It likely will come with some silicone goop handy, but I keep some extra on hand just because ETCG say so.
And our handy little bushing press. Don’t go out and buy anything expensive if you are inserting one of these donut bushings. Yeah for oem you might want a tool, but for this, a bolt a nut, some washers and scrap pieces of wood, or bigger washers even.
Assemble as such. I think the metal sleeve on the arm might be tapered I tried initially getting the bushing in from the other side, no luck. Also I had two little wood circles at first, the rear one pulled up too close though and didn’t allow to get the bushing fully seated, so I got a wider piece of mdf from the scrap bin and drilled a hole in it. Just something to keep in mind,
Zip zip says Mr. Impact.
And done, with the pin reinserted. Make sure you line it up right according to your marks.
After that it’s just a simple matter of following disassembly in reverse. A little prying and pulling here and there to get things all lined back up, but then you’re done. Yay!